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RIP, TJ and Tiger

January 26, 2010

It is with real sadness that we announce the recent passing of Thomas Jefferson and Tiger Lily. Many of you will remember our Gray’s Tree Frogs, named for the esteemed Founding Father and flowering perennial, respectively. TJ passed away in December, and Tiger followed on January 24 after an unidentified illness.

TJ and Tiger entered our lives in 2008, when they were taken as tadpoles from an evaporating puddle in Virginia. We raised them through their tadpole-hood, watched them develop legs and lungs, and provided for them in their adulthood. They survived to be over a year and a half old.

These acrobatic arboreal amphibians will be missed by everyone who recalls their playful antics. Many of our readers have seen Tiger skillfully hunt crickets and watched TJ intrepidly explore Matt’s shirt. I will never forget how, whenever the frustration of writing a thesis grew, the frogs would scramble upside down or swing around on their vines like Tarzan to distract me.

Special thanks are due to everyone who helped care for these cute creatures over the course of their lives, especially to Beth, who took on the duties of caring for them during this extended trip. She ensured that, to the end, the frogs were comfortable with plenty of insects, climbing branches, and moisture. Rest in peace, dear pets.

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The Last of 2009 in Photos

December 30, 2009

Please forgive the delay in posting pictures from our trip. 2010 is around the corner, thus we wanted to catch up with our travels up until now. The pictures begin on the Greek Islands, continue to Southwestern Turkey, ending that stretch on the epic journey to Nemrut Daği. The photos make their way to the area around our current home, Izmit, and finally briefly dipping into our fantastic Switzerland adventure. Enjoy!

We wish all of you a happy, healthy New Year!

Nysiros Greek Volcanic Island


Goat on a mountain. Kos Island, Greece


Lycian Tombs in Fethiye


Lisa and Matt happy and cold in Saklikent Gorge, Turkey


Lisa and Matt playing in the silty mud at Saklikent


Sea Kayaking over sunken ruins near Kas, Turkey


Spontaneous combustion in Chimera, Turkey


Terrifying road leading to Nemrut Daği


Castle on the way to Nemrut Daği


Extreme gale force winds on top of Nemrut Daği, Turkey


Epic sunset from Nemrut Daği


Behold Nemrut Daği!


Black Sea


Hiking through the Alps in Switzerland


Zurich, Switzerland


Rhine Falls - Europes Largest Waterfall. Switzerland

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Pictures from Elise’s Trip

December 17, 2009

Matt, Lisa & Elise at the Black Sea


Elise and Lisa in the Children's Play Rope


Elise!

Elise!


Sunset over the Gulf of Izmit

Sunset over the Gulf of Izmit


Ulucami (Great Mosque) in Bursa


Matt, Lisa & Elise by Istanbul University


So many textiles!

The pictures speak for themselves, we had a wonderful time when Elise was here! More pictures from the rest of our trip will be coming soon.
Elise has many more photographs from her camera, check them out!

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Happy Thanksgiving!

December 2, 2009

We hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving. We certainly did. Our great friend, Elise, visited Turkey for a week. With Elise we explored Izmit, climbed around some rock formations at the Black Sea, saw the amazing architecture at the former Ottoman capital, Bursa, went to a hamam, and went crazy for Turkish delight in Istanbul. We also gave thanks over pieces of kabak tatlisi, which despite what the Turks may say, is NOT the same as pumpkin pie. It’s safe to say that Elise’s visit was one of the best weeks of the trip.

Since Elise was kind enough to bring us a laptop, we hope to be able to update this blog more frequently and with more photos.

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Switzerland

November 13, 2009

Well, we just returned from a spontaneous trip to Zürich, Switzerland. We spent three great days there with another amazing Couchsurfing host. It was cold but beautiful. We went hiking for a day on an Alpine mountain, though it was in the clouds so we couldn’t see very far. We also went to see Europe’s largest waterfall, the Rhein Falls. Impressive, but no Niagara. Exploring the city of Zürich was great – old churches, a pleasant lake, decadent guildhalls, and the general niceness that is Europe. We even scored free tickets to a wine tasting festival spread across eight boats on Lake Zürich. Fantastic is all we can say. The food in Switzerland was delicious – a lot of chocolate, even more hot chocolate, rösti, veal in mushroom sauce, AMAZİNG pastries, and of course, lots of Swiss cheese.

We have some good photos to post from la Suisse, and after ELİSE comes to visit, we can post them from the laptop.

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VISITOR!

November 8, 2009

We are very excited to have our first guest visit us for Thanksgiving — Elise!!! We are thrilled Elise has accepted our offer. We know we will have a great time together in Turkey. To everyone else, the offer to pay for part of a plane ticket is no longer available. But we will always love and welcome guests!

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More Pictures and Stories to Come

October 23, 2009

So, we are having some issues uploading photos to the website. We have loads more pictures to upload and stories to tell from our travels in Greece and Turkey, and we hope to do so after getting a laptop here. But that won’t be really soon…

Life here in Turkey is going great. The apartment is really nice, people at work are friendly, and teaching English is fun. Our main concern is that Turks keep giving us so much free tea and baklava we might start gaining weight.

On our free days, we have visited İstanbul and explored the hills outside the city. Lisa got to set foot in the Black Sea for the first time in a beautiful and secluded stretch of coastline. We have been hiking a lot, seeing tons of tortoises, lots of lizards, and several snakes. No jackals, bears, deer, or wolves yet, though they are all supposed to inhabit the mountains near us. We have some beautiful photos from the area and will post them once we can.

In the meantime, our offer still stands. If you are interested in a discount ticket to Turkey, just email us.

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Come Visit Us!

October 9, 2009

We are settled in İzmit and have finally begun teaching. After much confusion about work schedules, we are both happily teaching  English vocabulary and grammar while discussing interesting issues such as globalization and education systems.

That said, we don’t have a laptop or visitors. There are only 2 of us in a 3 bedroom apartment. That means you can visit us in luxury with our spare bed! Friends and family are always welcome!

Want a super-discounted plane ticket? If you bring us Lisa’s laptop from Novi, we can help pay for part of your plane ticket to alluring İstanbul! This is a limited time offer. So take the opportunity to spend an amazing vacation in Turkey with your friends! :)

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Delphi and Meteora

October 1, 2009

Here are a few more photos from Greece. The first two are from the ancient complex of Delphi, where the oracle of Apollo foretold the future and affected history. We spent a few days there and did a roughly 30km hike to an ancient mountain cave temple dedicated to Pan and Dionysus. The second two are from Meteora, a fantastic area in Greece where monks built these monasteries perched high atop some spectacular rock formations. We hiked and bouldered a little there.

Click on the photos to enlarge them (especially the panorama!).

 

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Back in Turkey and Teaching Soon

September 26, 2009

We made it back to Turkey from Greece and are in doing one last burst of traveling before beginning work. The past few weeks have been adventurous and really busy.

We’ve toured Athens, hiked around Delphı, scrambled over the cliffs and monasteries of Meteora, got a shrımp cleaning in a tidal pool at the Temple of Poseiden, watched the sun rise and set over a Greek island, healed ourselves in Hippocrates’ thermal waters.

In Turkey, we took a boat cruise for snorkeling and sunbathing, hiked a section of the magnificent Lycian Way, sea kayaked over sunken Greek ruins, canyoned one of Turkey’s most gorge-ous gorges, wandered around Olympos, got burned by Chimaera’s eternal flames, and stayed in a tree’s house. 

Once we get settled, we’ll post a lot more pictures.

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This… Is… SPARTA!!!

September 15, 2009

(and one of Athens)

Leonidas! - The Original Sparty.

Leonidas! - The Original Sparty.

Sparta!

Sparta!

Matt found this little guy in his shorts in Mystras.

Matt found this little guy in his shorts in Mystras.

Mystras Citadel

Mystras Citadel, the last capital of Byzantium

This is the gorge the Spartans left the weak babies to die.

The gorge where the ancient Spartans left the weak babies to die.

Parthonon of the Acropolis in Athens

Parthenon of the Acropolis in Athens

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Top Nine Reasons That Dracula Himself Did Not Want Us To Find His Castle

September 14, 2009

1. Bucharest. Aside from the city itself being so off-putting, we almost had no place to stay for the night. Thank goodness for the nice girls who let us borrow their phones.

2. Târgovişte. Our escape from Bucharest brought us to a city that was much farther away from the castle than we were led to believe. Furthermore, there were no more buses to Curtea de Argeş until the morning.

3. It began to rain – the first rain we have seen all trip started on the bus from Târgovişte to Câmpulung forcing us to seek shelter because the next bus from there to Curtea de Argeş was again, not until the morning. We were told the buses left regularly in the morning (6:00, 7:30, 9:45, 10:45, and 12:30)

4. Since we had not planned on spending the night, we didn’t budget for accommodation. We only had about 45 lei, and the only country where our debit cards won’t work is Romania. Not that it would make much difference because nearly the only hotel in town wouldn’t accept credit. Additionally, it was Sunday so all of the exchange places were closed. Originally we wanted to catch the 6:00am bus but needed to change plans in order to wait until the banks opened in the morning.

5. The list of bus times we were given was wrong. The Curtea de Argeş bus only left at 6:00 and 12:30. So we had to sit around the bus station for about 3 hours.

6. During this long wait, it started to rain again. Worst of all, a bird flew into the station and was trapped. The poor bird was so scared it flew into a window above our seats and literally fell onto Lisa and her backpack. The traumatized bird laid there helplessly until an older woman picked it up and set it outside.

7. The Curtea de Argeş bus supposed to take us past the city closer to Poenari De Arges. Right before we left the autogar we discovered that Poenari Castle was not near Poenari De Arges but by Arfeu – a different bus about 400 meters away. We ran with a gang of dogs for a minute and the minibus picked us up. (It’s still raining…)

8. The Arfeu minibus was super packed and we ended up standing like sardines in a can. It was a rather uncomfortable ride and we still didn’t know where exactly to get off the bus.

9. The rain slowed and the sky started to clear up  as we reached the village of   Capatanenii. At this point Dracula must have given us his best for making it this far because a woman who spoke English on the bus offered her assistance and told the bus driver where to let us off.  The castle was now in sight! And a dog near where the bus dropped us off offered us her companionship and protection on the 3 km walk to the beginning of the steps of the castle.

After all of the set backs, the entire excursion was surprisingly vampire free!

Castle Poenari - Dracula's Fortress. Romania.

Castle Poenari - Dracula's Fortress. Romania.

(more pictures to come when the computer isn’t so stubborn)

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Cappadocia and Cherven

September 8, 2009
We tiled that roof! Cherven, Bulgaria.

We tiled that roof! Cherven, Bulgaria.

We dropped in on an English Archeological Dig at the Citadel. Cherven, Bulgaria

We dropped in on a Scottish archeological dig at the Cherven Citadel. Cherven, Bulgaria.

On top of the Citadel. Cherven, Bulgaria.

On top of the citadel. Cherven, Bulgaria.

Skull we dug up in Carol's backyard. Cherven, Bulgaria.

Skull we dug up in Carol's backyard. Cherven, Bulgaria.

Scorpion! Cherven, Bulgaria.

Scorpion! Cherven, Bulgaria.

Goreme behind a field of flowers. Cappadocia, Turkey
Goreme behind a field of flowers. Cappadocia, Turkey.
Rose Valley. Cappadocia, Turkey

Rose Valley. Cappadocia, Turkey.

Pottery in tree on the road to the Goreme Open Air Museum

Pottery in tree on the road to the Goreme Open Air Museum.

Uchusar Castle. Cappadocia, Turkey

Uchisar Castle. Cappadocia, Turkey.

On top of Uchusar Castle.

On top of Uchisar Castle.

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We Have Jobs!

September 2, 2009

Big announcement time: We both found jobs. We will be teaching English in Turkey, just outside Istanbul, with one of the more well-respected and well-known English schools. The contract runs from October 1 to March 31, which leaves plenty of time for us to travel in Greece in September and finish the trip around the Mediterranean in April and May before we come back to the States for Mike and Maria’s wedding. The job pays well and includes housing. We’ve budgeted enough to live in Turkey, finish the trip, and return home debt-free, possibly even with the same amount of money as we left with. The job is part-time and fairly flexible with scheduling, so everything looks really great for the next few months. After May, hopefully jobs and/or grad school!

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Leaving Romania

September 1, 2009

Sorry for the light posting lately – turns out there’s not much internet in these parts. We ended up staying in Romania a little longer than originally planned, and it was great! We climbed 1480 stairs to reach one of Dracula’s (Vlad Tepes) fortresses where he fought the Turks. This was out in the middle of the Carpathians and the view from the top of the mountain was unbelievable. We’ll post pictures when we can. We also visited the former capital of Wallachia and saw a Dracula museum in a tower he had built. The highlight of our time here might have been the bus rides. Rural Romania is absolutely gorgeous. Bucharest… skip. We’re getting on an overnight train for Greece in about 30 minutes.

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Bulgaria!

August 27, 2009

It’s about Day 15 of the trip. We left Istanbul, spent two days in Cappadocia, and took an overnight train to Bulgaria. We’re currently working on an organic farm and yoga studio here in Bulgaria for the week and heading to Romania in a few days. Internet access is limited right now, so expect more details and photos next week or so. Big news to come.

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Matt on İstanbul

August 18, 2009

FYI – Lisa took the pictures we posted last time. Mine aren’t bad either, but THANK YOU to her father for lending us such a spectacular camera. We’re staying in a room north of İstanbul looking over the Black Sea right now and can’t wait to share this view.

Anyway, I just wanted to write some thoughts about returning to İstanbul. This is my favorite city in the world, after all, and I fınally came back after two years. It’s simply amazing to share all of my favorite things with Lisa – especially the food. İskender Kebap, vişne suyu, börek, mantı and some of the best baklava in the world have been delicious. Many things have remained the same in this 1600+ year old city, like the tastiness of the food, the hospitality of the Turks, and the epic scale of the ancient monuments, buildings, and walls. Some things have changed, though. My friends from Boğaziçi might be sad to learn that the ruins of Yoros Kalesi (I wrote the Wikipedia article for an Ottoman history class while here) are now even more overrun with tourists, litter, and touts. Rüstem Paşa Camii, hidden behind Mısır Çarşısı, now sees scantily-clad Italian tour groups flouting the dress codes. Some things are constant, some change, but this city remains my favorite in the world.

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One Week in İstanbul in Photographs

August 16, 2009
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İstanbul’dayız

August 14, 2009

Merhaba! İstanbul’dayız means “We are in İstanbul!” Lisa is slowly learniıng the basics of Turkish from Matt. We got to spend to a long day in Chicago with our friend Lıily. We ate sushi, took funny pictures at the Bean, and laughed at the fountain that spits at people. After a long flight we arrived here in İstanbul and met our friend Hasan who we are staying with. Our first real day was spent at an interview at Eden’s Garden and exploring Matt’ s old university, Boğaziçi. Lisa’s reaction to eating İskender Kebap: “I love meat!” Today we have big plans to visit a castle and need to get going.

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Boarding a Plane in Three Hours

August 11, 2009

We packed our bags, found places to stay, scheduled job interviews, studied Turkish, and already started salivating over the thought of eating Iskender Kebap. Now we just have to get there. Expect another post Thursday after our first job interviews.